Profile: Tyres100
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• • My new car buying experience thus far.

  • Originally posted by wonderwhoits
    

    So for the first time ever at 26, I am buying a brand new car right from the factory... in Japan.  I am retiring a still-running, sluggish but stubbornly, 1994 Saturn SL2 with 211,000+ miles, most of which are mine.  I would have liked to buy another American car, but I don't think any of the models GM and Ford offer are particularly attractive.  (Speaking within my budget, and both specs/aesthetics wise)

    The car I'm getting is the 2009 Honda Fit sport model/manual.  While I'm not too crazy about hatchbacks I was initially drawn to this car because of it's specs and extensive standard equipment list.  The car is a real fuel sipper and common reports of actual mileage averages are around 37mpg city/highway combined.  As high as mid 40's reported on some highway trips.  So Ford and GM ain't got nothing on that.  I have also grown to appreciate the design and uniqueness of the car as time has gone since I first looked at getting one of these things.

    So after a test drive I decide I'm gonna get one.  Not so fast though because the dealer only has the automatic I just drove.  If you want one it has to be ordered because the U.S. supply is limited and blah blah blah.  So I say fine, I'll order a car. (which requires a $400 deposit) 

    I say that I dont want the car before the end of December/beginning of January and the dealer says that's fine- it should take that long anyway for the car to get here.  It's coming on the 28th.  I needed the time to get the largest down payment I could muster together, about 5500- to keep the payments low.

    They say if I don't get it now they can hold my deposit until they can order another that may arrive around march.  My 400 dollars is now in deposit limbo where I'd have to speak with a manager to see about getting it back. 

    I say that the price has some room above the MSRP and could come down several hundred.  Dealer says they can throw in some floor mats.  Woot.

    They said they could get me 6% financing.  Now it's 7.75% because of limited credit history so no 6% unless I get a co-signer.

    So I really don't like any of the models Ford or GM have in my price range/specs range- but I am half tempted to tell the Honda dealer I'm going over to one of them just because I know ford/GM would give me an outstanding deal right now.  Even if I did lose the damn deposit I'd still be saving money.

    Do you guys think if I threaten to walk I might finally get a break here?  I mean I really don't like the Cobalt/Focus at all.  While they are similar in fuel economy and class,  they are not on par with quality, especially the Cobalt.  The Focus I am pretty "meh" about- seems like everyone has a Ford Focus like it was a government stimulus car.

    I really want the damn Fit but this Honda dealer is pushing my buttons.

     

    Try the new malibu, it is nice. Here in my state 4 dealerships closed and one of them was the largest Chevy dealer in the east coast. More are hurting, people are not trusting their money on a future that is not solid. These dealers should be doing everything they can to keep you.

    I think if you press you may find they will give you a vehicle at the GM dealer for GMS which is basically the lowest they can go, employee discount price. Every car on a new car dealer has a invoice and the bottom line. A dealer who sells at that number makes nothing really, who hurts the most is the salesperson who spends 3hrs or more on a sale to find they only get $50 on the deal.

  • Posted: 11/21/08 8:33 PM
    General Discussion
• • Computer Build Help

  • Originally posted by Loke666
    

    Originally posted by Tyres100
    

    I'm sorry but I find your post of suggestions really ridiculous. If you know anything about PC components and hardware you would know the current list of parts do not require anything above a 475 watt PSU, heck even a 400 watt PSU is sufficient if the 12v rail has at least 28 amps. But hes getting a 600 watt Ultra PSU with it which is well above what he needs, and it is a great PSU. Hard drives do not impact PSU tolerances, why you would even mention it is beyond me. A HD does not draw that much off the PSU.

    The OP was building a PC that is cost effective but maintains good enough performance to play his listed games and some others that can be played very well that are not on that list above. Why you want to throw out expensive big parts to avoid the OP's thread on what he is looking for is also beyond me. Please read.

    His CPU of choice is fine, however I would recomend a 1066 FSB CPU for added performance. Your suggesting a $70 or more price increase on a CPU, again the OP wants to build a cheap system price/performance.

    His mobo of choice is spot on, nothing wrong with it. Going to a expensive mobo with cheaper parts will not make his PC faster, instead a waste of money. The Gigabyte mobo he listed is an awesome board, I have the same one in my other PC.

    His GFX card of choice is good for what he wants, going better will not give much more performance with lower end hardware. So then your really building a higher end PC which costs alot more then the OP probably is willing to spend. That number is a few hundred dollars more.

     

     

    A 650W power supply ain't costing much more than 600 and do give him an option to actually get a better GFX card in time. Sure with the cheap gfx card he can run it anyways but it is not fun too be forced to get a new power supply just because you want a new GFX card.

    The CPU is the most important thing in the computer to get one below 1333 will really slow things down a lot. And while 70 bucks is some money, the difference between 2 and 3 ghz are extremly big, not even counting the speed of the FSB.

    I have bad experiences with Gigabyte myself, had to replace a few ones for friends.MSI boards works well for a low price. And A-BIT don't use cheap components, only the best japanese made ones.

    And yes, if the OP gets the slow processor the GFX card is enough.-

    50 watts more for a PSU he gets free basically with that Ultra case is not doing anything for him. Saying to buy a 50 watt more PSU that will have the same amps on the 12v rail and specs except for 50 watts offers nothing. With that 600 watt PSU he is fine.

    Why would he be looking to upgrade much more on a cheap PC build? He has already told you he is not paying more money for better parts.

    That case is awesome, my friend has it and the PSU that comes with it is great. Hes paying $99 to get the case which costs near that because of its solid construction and great airflow and design. PSU he is getting free essentially.

    His CPU choice matches what he wants to accomplish for price/performance. 800 FSB is not all that much slower then 1066 FSB in benchmarks on clock per clock basis. Above 1066 the distance between 1066 and 1333 does offer greater performance, but the OP is probably not concerned with that when most of his build is reflecting around a cheap game rig capable of playing current games decently and effectively.

    Gigabyte boards like the one he has linked uses solid state capacitors from Japan and other top end components. Every manufacturer of top mobos uses top end components in most of their boards. Some only offer them when going above x model series.

  • Posted: 11/21/08 8:25 PM
    General Discussion
• • my new pc and mmorpg related question

  • Originally posted by barshems
    

    Hey all,

     

    I just ordered a new pc from dell,

    940 intel core-i7

    6gb ddr 3 ram

    radeon hd 4870 x 2

    creative soundblaster x-fi fata1ity

    I haven't played any mmorpg's since everquest 2, which ran on my

    athalon 3500 with my radeon x1600 at 1 gb of ram (I can't wait to trash this thing, it's valued at less than $100)

     

    Okay the question I'm wondering (for you hardware pro's out there) is how will the system fair against the new mmorpg's out and the up and comming mmorpg's?

     

    I was thinking about getting global agenda (which looks to have some nice resolution) but after playing everquest 2 on my old system and lagging or having to reboot every 30min. when the pc would overheat i gave up on pay to play mmorpg's and stuck to the 2d animated free to play games.... i bought fallout 3 but can't even run it on minimum settings for more than 45min. without having to reboot.

     

    Any advice on what kinda games to run on this system? thanks.

     

    If you have to ask that question with a build you posted then I can't help you.

  • Posted: 11/21/08 8:14 PM
    General Discussion
• • Computer Build Help

  • Originally posted by tastethegold
    

    pick up a barebone from tigerdirect.com

    3.2ghz (dual core-since QUAD CORES ARE SHIT FOR GAMING!!!!!!!!! let me say it again since people have a hard time grasping this QUAD CORES ARE SHIT FOR GAMING!!!!!!) 3 gigs ram 450W psu case mobo with pciex16=150$

    if you need to ask you dont know, since you dont know trust me and just get a barebone kit from tigerdirect.com.

     

    Depends, what barebone kit. You have not supplied a link. Usually barebone kits have horrible PSU, mobo choices and memory kits. But the CPU they offer usually is better then most the parts.

    And yes Quad core CPU is not for gaming.

  • Posted: 11/21/08 8:08 PM
    General Discussion
• • Computer Build Help

  • Originally posted by salty.cod
    

    @ Tyres

    For the OS. I only have a Windows XP Media Center back up disc. So, that's why I chose the OS. Would you still reccomend the XP OS or go with Vista?

    @ Loke

    The parts you listed are nice but i believe they'd be out of my range I'd like to spend on them.

    @ Recon

    Thanks for the information on the PSU.

    ---

    I was looking at the CPU options. How does AMD fair against Intel? Would this mobo and CPU be a better option than my first choices? Also, which video card would be a better choice? The one Loke or Recon listed? I might be stretching it a bit but I'd like to spend around $700 for this build, but I might be a little flexible on the price.

    Thanks for the replies and information, much appreciated.

     

    I still think your better off with XP. Right now going with Vista will only be a major problem for you because you would need 4 gigs memory minimum in Vista. Vista 64 and Vista 32bit both need 4 gigs, even though you will only be able to use 3.2 or 3.5 gigs in Vista 32bit you still need the extra to combat the large running process orders that Vista has by default. And if you do not get Vista ultimate you wont be able to turn off some of those processes that never will be used, so that would mean spending more money to get Ultimate.

    XP with SP3 gives the best game performance and stability over Vista still today. Even though I am an expert MS OS user I still think XP is best. I run Vista 64 Ultimate highly tweaked and baked by myself, running 31 processes from the original 73 active on fresh install gives me better then 50% performance boost in all benchmarks with 4 gigs ram. So if you are not savy at tweaking and understanding your processes and other OS ins and outs you will be sluggish running apps and games.

    XP has the advantage for all games still. Do some research on the net, google works best. But you will find many saying Vista is better over XP, this is true for some things and if you are using 4 gigs ram and higher end hardware, if your not then XP is best still. Trust me you wont miss DX 10 and certainly not in the next 5 years. DX11 will be the new one by then and by that time you will need a $3000 PC to play anything without major loss of performance.

  • Posted: 11/21/08 8:02 PM
    General Discussion