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All Posts by Recon48

All Posts by Recon48

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202 posts found
Originally posted by Hariken
I heard that last patch really broke this game. I bet Zenimax going is going crazy about now. The first elderscrolls game to get so many crap reviews. Everyone calling it a basic generic mmo. It should have never been made in the first place. The next elderscrolls single player game is really going to have to be epic to recover from all the bad press this game is getting. But they will keep it going with the subs until money stops coming in then go f2p but even that won't help them. The way this game is going f2p won't help it at all.

The latest patch seemed to be really messed up with an hourly crash-to-desktop memory leak, random world mobs that were harder to fight than most bosses (especially in VR content), getting stuck trying to enter certain buildings, and a few other things gone wrong. I was starting to get upset & wondering how they could release such a un-tested mess. Then I had a system message pop up yesterday that said they were out to sweep the game of bots, and if anyone spotted one to report them right away. I realized all those glitches weren't part of the patch, but temporarily in place for the sweep. Now that the dust has settled  it feels like ESO again. I haven't seen any bots running around, and  harvest nodes are everywhere... just like they were in early access. Mobs seem back to normal and I've noticed far fewer occurrences of  input lag since the bots were purged. I think the speed hacks they used were part of, if not the cause of the input lag.

Can I have your stuff when you quit?

 

 

I too used to be a beta tester with a delusional over-inflated sense that my opinions and wants were important to a game's success.... until I took an arrow to the knee.
Originally posted by Robokapp
Originally posted by dauntSilver

FaP

my new favorite game. and nothing else worth playing at the moment.

uh...is this what I think it is ?

I think its: http://www.mmorpg.com/gamelist.cfm/game/240/FreeWorld-Apocalypse-Portal.html

 

Nice write up, OP.  I can't honestly agree or disagree on your comparison to EVE (as I havent played it) but I played this while it was in beta through Jan & Feb.  I agree the UI takes a bit to get the hang of, but its leaps & bounds easier to manage than DF1.  I have this horribly short attention span when it comes to games the past few years, usually playing the same one for anywhere from a month to 6 months before moving on to try something else. The main reason I put it down was do to my work schedule. Its hard to want to come home & game for a few hours every night when I work 50-60 hour weeks. I just burn out on them too easily. But I can say I gave DFUW a solld two months & during the beta it was very noticable that AV was working hard to close up as many bugs & potential exploits as they could.  DF1 was an AFK macro & exploiter's haven, so seeing their approach with the new version gave me hope.
Sounds cool.  Hopefully its a step toward more offline or remote capabilities.
Originally posted by LlexX
Originally posted by Onomas
Originally posted by legendsolo
Originally posted by xDayx

5)Full Loot (do items even have durability without the option to repair them?)

more casual stuff is being added to AA lately, durability is to hardcore.

So no durability because only crafters liked that idea? So craters get crapped on again. Durability is in so many games and not a huge deal. The amount of money you make from quests, loot, missions, selling stuff you are telling me they cant afford a few $$$ to repair an item? Seriously?

Going to be another loot based economy? Or did i misread that?

 

First i will tell you the experiments with the repair system, durability was always present part of the items:

1. until CBT4, to repair an item you had to go to a blacksmith and pay him gold to do it.

2. end of CBT4, they added a new system to experiment with, in this system to repair an item you had to sacrifice another item (using one item to repair another item), some way of item sink, but eventually they went back to:

3. repair items with gold, and the blacksmith. 

Questions:  

Is the blacksmith that repairs items a NPC?

Is there a chance of failed repair that instead destroys the item?

Do the items that successfully repair revert back to 100% of their original durability, or does it suffer a max durability decay with each repair?

 

Originally posted by NBlitz
 

I don't agree that this is correct. It's not consistent with the other words that also contain arche+(rest of the word) like archetype, archaeology/archeology, archespore. 

If what they intended was for it to be pronounced as 'arc' then why go through the trouble of making it all fancy with 'che'. It doesn't make sense anymore to me, now that I've let the thought sink in.

We'll see if it stays the same when it's localized, like Karteli mentioned earlier.

The name has to mean something, unless they go with the "oh it's a made up word ingame for a god or something." If it adheres to the earthly definition then that explanation holds no water.

 

But it is what it is - a made up proper noun. Since there's no definition to be found, the word 'Archeage' would ultimately be up to to the developers to provide its pronunciation. One reason to not be too critical of it's correctness is that we're debating a word that fits Romantic etymology so it isn't only subject to US English pronunciation, even though US English has a few of  its own counter-intuitive pronunciation anomalies like 'Wednesday'. In UK English there are loads proper nouns/names like 'Worcester' (woos′·ter) that aren't pronounced like they would appear to be, or where the same name will have different pronunciations in US vs UK like 'Belvoir' (bE′·ver in UK, belv-war in US). Personally, I think the fancy 'Arche' spelling kind of gives it more of a olde world vibe.

Originally posted by Karteli
Originally posted by NBlitz
Originally posted by Karteli
Originally posted by NBlitz
()

How do you pronounce archeology and archetype?

And no, those two words are not kind of like when you have a pain, an "ACHE" in your body or joints where the "E" is silent".

Good argument, BTW.

 

In your examples, the "e" helps flow the words together so they can be pronounced. Otherwise you would get "Archology", or "Archtype".

There are people who do say ark-type. I can live with that too. No matter how wrong they may be.

 

ArcheAge doesn't need that kind of support.  The "E" can reamin silent, with the game title flowing quite nicely.

 

If you add that extra "E" sound to the name, it doesn't flow.

"ARK-E-AGE" ... it really doesn't flow like "ARK-AGE".

 

Although if you say "ARK-E-AGE" out loud it sounds funny .. say it .. you won't even recognize your own voice.

Here we go. I can agree with this, and why the majority (and the devs) would prefer it to remain silent.

 

I'm stubborn :p I actually like the way it sounds with the base word sounding like arkee. Beginning, origin, sovereignty. And if someone asks why I pronounce it the way I do, I can explain.

Cheers!

 

It's obvious we're both excited about ArcheAge.  The real answer to our issue is going to be how XLGames pronounces their game in English.

 

Then we'll have answer.

 

It could be nothing we could have imagined though .. pronounced "ALK-A-ALGE"... :-)

 

 

I just watched a new video on the archeage YouTube channel debuting the Open beta trailer.   Jake Song speaks at the beginning of the video for about 30 sec and pronounces it as "Ark-age".   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKCMmRveblQ  (0:13 & 0:21) 

Originally posted by Twilight33

i am on my third self built rig. i can say for sure its best to build your own. if you can get your hands on a copy of windows for free some how it will also usually end up being cheaper then a store pre built. if you need to buy a copy of windows the build cost is going to go up drastically. the key is to shop around and do research on the parts you want. i just did a build from the ground up half a year ago for about $600.

Phenom II 4x black edition 975, 16gigs of ram, 560 Ti.

important things to note on.

1)dont cheap out.,but dont get the absolute top end either. that stuff is usually excessively expensive. try and get just below top end. when building your own rig a lot of people cheap out and end up having to upgrade their computer in short order.

2) the motherboard is the heart of your system and dictates what components you can use. look for a board that has the best upgradability. IE look for a board that sports the latest processor socket type, large number of ram slots/capacity, and the latest slots and port types(SATA, PCI Express 2, USB 3, etc)

3) pick your hard drive carefully. it's very common for self built rigs to get bottlenecked because of the hard drive. many beginners think harddrive selection ends at capacity and buying a hard drive with a poor read speed and end up slowing down their entire rig.

4)know the power consumption of your rig, and make sure you get a supply that surpasses your needs. if your rig uses 750W and you buy a 750W power supply is isnt going to last long as its going to have to work at max output and burn out fast.

Great advice & sounds like you got a beast of a rig for the money.  Congrats.

Originally posted by bdk880
I did not know you could reregister windows. I currently have windows 8, but was going to buy a copy of windows 7

Normally the Windows Product Key is registered with Microsoft either during or right after Windows is installed.  During installation the OS creates an inventory of hardware that's in the machine (hardware ID), which is then attached to the product key so MS can see that A) the copy you're using is legally obtained,  B) your product key matches the OS and type of product license you've installed, and C) it isnt a key/copy thats being pirated & passed around in torrents. 

As far as the hardware you listed, looks like a pretty sweet build. Now to decide on a video card and OS.  This list is a prretty good start  for figuring out the right performance/price:  http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html

Your version of Windows is a factor here too.  If its WinXP, I believe that Microsoft will officially stop supporting it in 2014. If its Windows Vista or Windows 7, you'll definitely want to do a bit of research on re-registering the copy that you have when you replace the motherboard .

With Vista or 7, basically your options are to either keep the OS intact on the hard drive and partition that its currently installed to and everything will be moved into a "windows.old" folder

or

wipe the partition, format it and do a fresh install of Windows then call Microsoft Support and explain that you replaced the motherboard so the Product Key can be migrated to the new hardware ID.

1. Install game

2. Create account

3. Complete character creation

4. Log in

5. Find mailbox/bank

6. Pick up & equip best gear in game

7. Watch final battle CG cut-scene highlighting your triumph

8. ???

9. Profit

10. Unsub & play forums/Facebook/4chan while waiting for next expansion

 

 

I like what Smedley is saying, but I don't want to put too much stock in it until there's something on the table to back it up. SWG PreCU is proof enough that they know the recipe of mechanics, systems and gameplay that make a great sandbox, but I can't see a great sandbox living up to its full potential in a F2P model.  Maybe with a low sub fee and a shop with items similar to the cosmetic TCG stuff they could find a good middleground to capture both the F2P & P2P players. Personally, I'd be more than happy & willing to pay a sub for a polished game that has sustainable rather than consumable content.

At best I dabbled with a few of MMORPG's during 2012 but didn't find anything that grabbed my attention and kept me interested in playing for more than two weeks at a time.  I wouldn't say its killed gaming for me because there are still a couple of games I'm looking forward to playing (hopefully in 2013), but I can say that 2011-2012 definitely changed the types of games that I've put much of my time into. 
PC Help
Hardware « General Discussion
12/14/12 5:44:24 PM

I missed the additional 50 watts you tossed in there, but it doesnt change the total I come up with on eXtreme calc. The reason I said 3-4 watts per USB was to take into account for the pull differences in USB 2.0 & 3.0, and pulling an average of the two. This amounts to a difference of 2 or 3 watts, which is a really petty amount tbh.

The hypothetical 500w sagging to 480w I'm imagining worst case scenarios such as a 2 year old power supply that rarely gets shut down, and add in factors like  heat, less-than-perfect line conditioning, capacitor aging, unexpected TDC spikes, RFI,  etc building a perfect storm of worst case scenario. Regardless of brand/quality, any power supply subjected to numerous negative factors can sag. My issue is in not knowing how far under-rated is each PSU for its wattage. Without discussing it with their engineers, no one knows. Again, its a matter of 50 watts and I prefer to overshoot by that much rather than ride on the  hope that 450 really means 500. 

About the 80 Plus Gold/Bronze certs, they have about as much to do with min/max/peak/continuous wattage outputs as the breed of my neighbor's cat, but I'd agree that a gold is a better choice than bronze (of the same wattage & quality) if the price difference between the two is negligible. 

 We could debate for days over this 50 watts, but I'm just going to agree that we have slightly different methodologies in chosing the right amount of power supply for a system's needs. Mine works out for me, and if you get the same result thats great. I'll consider the $10 difference as buying piece of mind and you can consider it money well saved. 

PC Help
Hardware « General Discussion
12/14/12 4:43:21 PM

I'm not disputing your brands of choice... only the systems wattage requirements.  My point is that yes, since ratings are driven by marketing a 500w continuous could actually deliver 540watts max. but it also means that with RFI, heat, aging, etc it could also hit  sags and fall to 480w  intermittently.  There are also wattage needs that you're overlooking. Each USB device thats plugged in is going to bump up the wattage need by about 3-4 watts each, so I estimated 5 devices (15watts) that need figured into tthe draw to allow for things like a keyboard, USB mouse, Headset, Cell or iPod charger & desktop speakers.

My total on a more trusted wattage calculator is showing this to be right at a 450watt draw for the AMD FX-6300 setup you're recommending (calculated with 5 USB devices, having the SSD/7200 setup and with no overclocking of the GPU or CPU).  I just think that recommending at mimimum a 500w rated PSU would be a more responsible recommendation and allow a safer ceiling for unanticipated future draw increases such as overclocking the GPU via Catalyst software.

http://www.extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine

PC Help
Hardware « General Discussion
12/14/12 4:02:19 PM

 

Not sure where the figure of >400 watts is coming from, but this is showing about 100 more watts than your estimate.  I realize the CPU isnt a Black Edition and it doesnt allow to seperately add a 7200rpm & and SSD, but the difference there cant be much more than about 15 watts from what is recomended here. I'm guessing 475-ish would be about right with an SSD instead of 2 7200rpm's. You can throw the top of the line 450watt PSU at a machine that needs >450, but its going to fail early as well as cause random shutdowns, crashes, BSODs & similar turmoil. 

Maybe their estimates are REALLY far off.. Im not sure.  I'm going to dig around for real numbers on wattage draw for these components.

PC Help
Hardware « General Discussion
12/14/12 4:55:11 AM

I'm not sure about this copy & pasting business, but I'll apologize for the over-extended paragraph.  I typed it out on my phone during a break at work.

I'll agree again and say that even though it isnt an immediate necessity, an aftermarket CPU cooler is definitely a better option of the two. The less times your hands need to be inside the case after the initial build, the better off you are (usually).  I would still recommend upgrading to an aftermarket cooler down the road (especially in a gaming rig) to someone using the stock cooler for a few months, as I've done this in the past. Load temps ultimately dictate whether or when there's a need for an aftermarket cooler.

Regarding my point in choosing Arctic Silver: it didn't have anything to do with its cooling characteristics vs. that of any other insulator compared to it. Again, I'm drawing from my own experiences. The thermal compound thats used on a stock heatsink has a tendency to cure over time, especially with a decent amount of CPU load-heavy use. The curing isn't immediate by any means, but it becomes more noticeable over time. When this curing happens, the pad of compound starts to lose its insulating surface area. I haven't seen this happen to Arctic Silver, even in extreme heat conditions (by CPU standards), so by default for me, CPU & GPU heatsinks get the stock goop removed and replaced with Silver before they go in.

We've pretty much established that the Radeon 7870 is a solid choice for a graphics card. The one I linked wasn't the cheapest of the 7870's but it had more & higher owner reviews. To me, its worth the extra 20 bucks to go with a model that 90+ people are giving 5 egg reviews versus taking a gamble on a model with two 2 egg reviews. I did find a list of GPU bench results for PS2 here: http://forums.videocardz.com/topic/188-planetside-2-performance-test/

About the power supply: the reason I chose the 600 watt was a combination of price, brand, reliabilty and past experience.  I've had a decent number of PSU failures than I should have using a 450watt PSU on a rig that required 430watts and had the best durability-to-price result by using a PSU that overshoots a system's wattage requirement by about 20%. Factors like a power supply having less than perfect fluctuation correction (line conditioning), line harmonic interference, RFI, heat and component aging (i.e. diminished capacitor electrolytes) are all factors that would support the notion that a power supply needs a given "buffer" amount above the system's wattage requirement in order for it to be reliable. Because of the potential factors that can cause wattage fluctuations, I lean toward better safe than sorry in regards to choosing a power supply for a system's wattage requirements.

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