|39 posts found|
6/21/13 10:53:21 AM#21
Originally posted by H.A.M.A
Post what you plan on changing before you buy. Everything Quiz listed will work together and are good solid parts. If you dont have the knowledge to pick appropriate stuff then ask before you buy.
Quiz always posts best bang for the buck and he never picks cheap junk, especially on a $1500 budget.
OP 6/21/13 6:28:11 PM#22
Here's my final choice before I make the purchase comment in case there is anything that should be changed. Also I decided to invest a little more money for a new keyboard, mouse, and headset.
Rosewill THOR V2 Gaming ATX Full Tower Computer Case, support up to E-ATX / XL-ATX, come with Four Fans - 1 x Front Red LED 230mm Fan, 1 x Top 230mm Fan, 1 x Side 230mm Fan, 1 x Rear 140mm Fan
Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K
LG 24X DVD Burner - Bare Drive 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 24X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model GH24NS95 - OEM
Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM
GIGABYTE GV-N770OC-2GD GeForce GTX 770 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 HDCP Ready Video Card
Rosewill CAPSTONE-750 750W Continuous @ 50°C, Intel Haswell Ready, 80 PLUS GOLD, ATX12V v2.31 & EPS12V v2.92, SLI/CrossFire Ready, Active PFC Power Supply
MSI Z77A-GD55 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel 2011/1366/1155 and AMD FM1/FM2/AM3+
SAMSUNG 840 Series MZ-7TD250BW 2.5" 250GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model BLS8G3D1609ES2LX0
Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model BLS2K4G3D1609ES2LX0
Arctic Silver Arctic Alumina 1.75g Premium Ceramic, Polysynthetic thermal compound AA-1.75G
Full Size Alps Mechanical Switch US Keyboard KB-6600BU by DSI - OEM
Creative Fatal1ty Gaming Headset
RAZER Naga Black 17 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB Wired Laser Expert MMO Gaming Mouse
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
Most listed above was from what Quizz recommended, I just wanted to provide more detail. So Let me know anything that I need to know hopefully by today, so I can get the go ahead on the order.
OP 6/22/13 4:37:21 AM#23
Guy's your killing me, if nothing has to be modified with the parts just tell me so I can go ahead on the order, because ive been waiting on a response for about 12 hours now.
Hard Core Member
6/22/13 5:03:40 AM#24
Everything looks fine and will work but I did notice at least one thing which seemed odd. You have two separate entries for the ram. At first I thought you were just ordering two of the same thing but then I noticed one appears to be a single stick of 8Gb Ram while the other is 2x4Gb (total of 8GB) sticks of ram. I'll assume that is a mistake as it wouldn't make sense to have that type of configuration. Please double check and ensure if your goal is to have 16Gb of ram that you choose either 2x8Gb sticks or 4x4Gb sticks.
OP 6/22/13 5:34:32 AM#25
One of the ram parts came free with the vid card I think and the other was just seperate.
But here's the part that I did alot of research on this part here- Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM I checked the feedback on it from newegg.com, and numerous people gave it a bad review due to DOA?... which I guess it means it failed/didnt work.
The rpm is lower 5900 I think but runs quiet, although I only saw 6 feedback on that actual hard drive, no one gave a bad response due to DOA just the lower rpm.
Also will I need this because I'm not sure if the ssd and hard drive will come with it OKGEAR 18" SATA 6 Gbps Cable, Straight to Left Angle W/ Metal Latch, Black, Backward Compatible 3 Gbps and 1.5 Gbps
Some folks are like Slinkies, totally useless but great fun to watch when you push them down stairs
6/22/13 5:38:45 AM#26
Originally posted by Quizzical
That is a silly remark bub. I wouldn't tell the kid to go and assemble his own PC if he has no knowledge of doing it.
To the OP: Don't listen to this guy.
OP 6/22/13 7:07:19 AM#27
Originally posted by Betaguy
First off, I rather you not refer to me as a kid. Secondly I have a general idea on how to build a gaming pc, and also the ability to do so with help. Finally, If your going to post on my thread, at least post something constructive, or helpful.
Quizz has already provided me with a list of parts which was kind of him, and also knowledge, such as the processor will not work with the motherboard unless both sockets are the same, whether he meant to or not. My intentions are not to be rude, it has just takin me 6 months to save up enough money for a new computer, and I'm not here to listen to your drama or opinion when it come's to not accepting advice from someone, when I can make that decision for myself.
6/22/13 8:24:50 AM#28
You want for all of your memory modules to be the same size, and for your total memory capacity to be a power of 2, and to have at least two memory modules. It's nice to have all of your memory modules identical (which is what memory kits are there to ensure), but not strictly necessary. The typical approach is to get a kit with two identical modules of whatever capacity you want.
The reason I picked out the memory for you as I did was that one module came in a combo deal, which made it a good value. But you need two modules, so I picked another module identical to the first as a separate purchase. While you could pick a different 8 GB module with the same or better specs (higher clock speed, lower latency timings, 1.5 V or lower) if you prefer, it needs to be another 8 GB module, so that you have two 8 GB modules, not one 8 GB and two 4 GB.
6/22/13 8:34:32 AM#29
Originally posted by Betaguy
I'm not arguing that no one should buy a computer elsewhere rather than assembling it himself. To the contrary, there are some good reasons to buy a desktop elsewhere:
1) Some people are completely clueless about technology. Such people may also need to hire someone to come to their house and plug the computer in for them.
2) Some people have a lot more money than time. If you work 60 hours per week and make $200k per year, paying an extra $500 (as compared to building it yourself) to get something nice from a boutique vendor that really takes care of their customers may well be worthwhile.
3) For some enterprise uses, having to troubleshoot a computer beyond some simple, obvious things simply isn't worth the trouble. Rather, you have a bunch of identical computers, and some extras laying around, and if one computer starts acting up, you replace the entire box with one of your spares while sending the original back to the vendor for warranty service.
That's not an exhaustive list, either. However, a lot more people should build their own than realize that they should build their own.
6/22/13 9:22:29 AM#30
Originally posted by miguksaram
I'll add to this that what matters is that you use thermal compound, not which thermal compound you use. Let's talk about what thermal compound does.
Processors put out a lot of heat when they're under heavy loads. You need to get that heat away from the processor so that you don't fry it. If you're going to conduct heat away, you ideally want to use a good conductor such as copper or aluminum. Both the heatspreader built into a CPU package and the heatsink placed on top of it typically do this.
The problem is that while both the heatsink and heatspreader may look flat at a macroscopic level, they're far from it at an atomic level. Rather, there are many small air bubbles. And air is a terrible conductor--about four orders of magnitude worse than aluminum or copper.
The purpose of thermal compound is to fill those air bubbles with something other than air. The need to be able to fill arbitrary shapes at a microscopic level means that you can't use a solid, but need to use a (rather viscous) liquid. So what you use isn't going to be a great conductor; it will typically be about two orders of magnitude worse than aluminum or copper. But that's still two orders of magnitude better than air.
If one potential thermal compound conducts heat twice as well as another, that's not terribly important. What matters is that you use thermal compound to force out a lot of the air pockets, while not using so much that you prevent much heatsink on heatspreader contact.
That's why the results of using one thermal compound rather than another typically amount to a rounding error. Look here, for example:
Household mayonnaise came in at 35 C. Out of dozens of thermal compounds tested, only two didn't end up within 3 C of that. And that's in spite of measurement and rounding errors that would tend to spread out the test results. Most of the results near the bottom are random household goods, not actual thermal compounds.
But look how terrible not using any thermal compound at all is. And chocolate is even worse, largely because it isn't a liquid that can fill arbitrary shapes.
That's not to say that you should use household mayonnaise as your thermal compound. But the problem isn't that it will fail to perform; it's that it will go rancid pretty quickly. Proper thermal compounds won't do that.
Whatever heatsink you get will come with some thermal compound, and that's plenty good enough unless you're going for an unreasonably large overclock and need an extra degree or two of cooling.
If you do want better cooling, then the place to start is with a better CPU cooler, not better thermal compound. A better CPU cooler can make a big difference in your cooling performance. Buying aftermarket thermal compound is a waste of money unless you're already spending at least $70 or so on a heatsink.
6/22/13 10:52:55 AM#31
Interesting chart on the Thermal compound.
I have used Arctic silver 5 for years. The first time I ever built a computer the friend helping me had some that we used. I guess I just got stuck on using it.
Either way its a $5-$10 purchase, but interesting to see that chart you posted Quiz.
OP make sure you get two or 4 of the same memory module. You dont want 3 sticks totalling 16gb. Either four 4gb or two 8bg if your going for 16g RAM. If you only want eight then go with two 4gb sticks.
Also keep in mind that if you reach a point where you cant assemble the comp yourself you can almost always find a mom and pop computer store to assemble it for you at a small charge. Especially since you have all the parts. If you go that route then having them physically assemble it should be cheap, as you can install drivers, OS and all that after the fact.
Good luck on your 1st build.=)
6/22/13 3:13:33 PM#32
One of those little tubes of Artic Silver has enough compound to do a dozen or more CPU installs. I have a couple laying about that have come with various heat sinks. It really takes a very very little bit.
Like butter on toast, not like Peanut Butter on bread.
I wouldn't call it a bad purchase, that $5 is enough to last for years and through several computers. But given that most heat sinks come with a little bit for free that works 99.8% as well, I would hardly call it a necessary purchase.
OP 6/22/13 4:18:10 PM#33
Alright thanks, I went ahead and ordered the parts but I did not order a hard drive. I will go to a local computer store and buy one there, and have them test it before I do, because I dont want to end up with a hard drive that is doa.
6/22/13 4:28:40 PM#34
Even if you did end up with a hard drive that was dead on arrival, you could use just the SSD for a while until you were able to get the hard drive replaced. 250 GB on the SSD is a good bit of space, and enough that some people wouldn't even need to also buy a hard drive.
OP 6/22/13 5:30:45 PM#35
Then what should be installed on a ssd compared to a hard drive?
6/22/13 6:20:11 PM#36
Originally posted by H.A.M.A
I have 240g of SSD space and 2.5 TB of HDD space total.
My SSD has OS, main programs and most played games. My HDD has other games, programs, movies, music, pictures, ect.
You want the OS on the SSD for sure, as this will make the computer much faster in general. Other than that put whatever you want on it. Use the HDD for your media and other files that do no need the speed of an SSD.You do not need a fast hard drive to watch a movie download, or listen to music, view pictures, word / excel documents, and what not.
OP 6/22/13 8:11:58 PM#37
Just another question when I did the order I actually went with a CORSAIR Hydro Series H110 Water Cooler.
....I know I should of let you guy's know before I changed parts, but the Thor v2 is pretty big so I figured that can be installed on the case.
I also did a little research and I found this. http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/bigham1980/builds/
That person has the same case as I do with the H110 so ya....
6/22/13 8:25:30 PM#38
It should work fine. A full tower case that doesn't have room for the common liquid cooling systems is doing something seriously wrong.
OP 6/22/13 11:39:59 PM#39
Ok thanks Quizz.